Kit Bricksto

Hi kevham, you might not be able to pm anyone here if your account is new and you haven't posted a lot yet. I do still sell the instructions for this model. I'll pm you about the details. :) I'd also love to see your take on that ship concept. The official set is already pretty solid looking in my opinion but I'd be very interested in a slight increase in size to maybe fit in a bit more interior!

I think the sink is probably there to connect the Room of Requirement set to the sixth film. Harry first enters the room of hidden things for the first time right after almost killing Draco in a bathroom after all. The sink doesn't really look anything like the bathroom in that scene though... the colours do look more like something you'd find outside or inside cloisters like the ones where Harry meets the Gray Lady in 7 pt.2. Haven't rewatched the scene to look for anything like it though and it would be a surprisingly specific piece of accuracy for Lego to include in an otherwise very loose interpretation of a scene...

These are all really cool! As a big fan of the ship I've got to say that the N-1 is my favorite. I'm amazed at how tiny you were able to make it while still looking really good and while the cockpit piece is too big (it is on almost every MOC of this ship) it doesn't look too out of place for the whole model to work. Also love the interior detail you were able to put in, that 3x3 round part looks really cool. Great job, man!

The only issue I see with the setup you've got here is that I don't think you will be able to put those liftarms in the middle in with blue 3L technic pins like that. I don't think it is possible to get the blue pin into the 4x6 technic brick like that at all. Or am I misinterpreting something in the picture?

@treffer21 Thank you! Several people have had issues with the engines sagging that I never had on the original. I think it might have to do with the clutch power of the bricks used and maybe I just got lucky with some very strong old bricks.. @Monkfiche Those are some really good looking modifications! I'd be interested in seeing your improved technic structure if you wouldn't mind sharing it when you are finished? The only thing I have doubts about are those hose tubes. The curves and bends look a bit tight in some places. Have you tested using those with real parts yet?

80$ is a very decent price for a rebrick of this set. I am lucky enough to own the original set and I can tell you that the stickers don't add a lot more to this particular build. I don't know if the stickers for the Clone Wars gunship (from 2008?) are any cheaper than the 2013 ones but if they are some of those might be useful to you? I like your mods as I prefer the CW gunships to the EPII ones but there are two things you could add to make it more accurate to the show. 1. As Stuartn said the doors should split and the parts you added then would open to the front. Maybe the CW gunship set could help with figuring out the mechanism here. And adding a few of those trans 1x2 tiles would help blend your addition more with the set. 2. The plugs you created under the cockpit are an amazing fit. I really like how you got that round plate into the arch! To fully blend it in you could try setting it back by one plate and adding 2x2 and 1x1 quarter round tiles to it. And if you want to make the build more accurate maybe try and incorporate the round grey things that the CW gunship has on the sides? Oh and also, I really like your downsized AT-RT! I think the reason why it doesn't fit into the Gunship might be that the legs don't fold up like they do on the "real thing". If you are interested I built a minifig scale AT-RT with folding legs specifically to fit inside an LAAT/i and maybe even AT-TEs. Still, all in all this is a great way of getting this set without actually paying the extreme prices for it. I think a lot of people who didn't manage to get it when it was new will be motivated to try your rebrick after reading your post! :)

I think it's about a metre long. I don't have it here, so I can't measure it exactly for you but it should be something around 1m . :)

Just saw that my Tantive IV was still on the list for MOCs without instructions. I am happy to report that instructions are available. For details visit the thread here on Eurobricks. :) Thank you for putting together this list. There are a lot of really cool models on there, a few of which I didn't even know about.

Looks to me like there is an upside down 1x1 brick with studs on all sides behind the printed tile and the part above that is a white 1x1 round plate stuck into the middle of the LBG round 2x2 plate of the head. And yes, I think you are right about the lower torso being that wheel hub.

@gottabekd While I don't have any statistics on who decided to use which colour I do think that quite a few builders chose to go for the DBG wheels. I'd imagine there are two main reasons for that. One is that it represents the heat scorching on the engines better than the "new" white ones and the other probably is that it isn't really easy to get large quantities of the white ones in some countries anymore. In fact I had no real problems getting them myself but as soon as a few people had started collecting parts for this model they got a lot harder to track down (in my country at least). I guess in the end it is down to personal preference, as monkfiche said. I must say that I do also like the dark grey scorched look but chose to use the white parts because most Lego Tantive's seem to use grey engines which isn't that accurate to the original in terms of the base colour and I wanted to set it apart a bit. However if you want to stress the used look of the ship, then dark grey probably is the way to go. :)

@Monkfiche I really like your modifications of the interior. I can imagine it as a cool display option to have your version opened up. :) @Magnuson24 The blue version sounds cool too! I considered buying the parts to swap out for a blue version too but never got to do so. Looking forward to seeing your version. :) @ everyone else: I hope that I replied to everyone who was asking about the instructions now. If I missed your request, please feel free to write to me again and I'll get back to you as soon as I can! Cheers and continue having fun building! Kit

Absolutely! PM me for the details. :)

@ClassicLook Thank you very much for the extensive feeback! It is much appreciated and unfortunately confirms what I was worried about. The engines are definitely the weak spot of this model. If I ever get to it I will redesign their structure in a sturdier way. I hope you enjoyed the build nevertheless. @Monkfiche I have not experienced any drooping of the cockpit on my version in the last year and while yours looks a bit heavier than mine I don't think that it should be too much for the structure of the "neck". And even if it is, I think you should be able to reinforce the neck itself without an extra stand. Having one under the cockpit would probably take away a lot from the elegance of the display and I would personally try and avoid it at any cost. Keep us posted on your mods for the engine section. Maybe some of your ideas can help others strenghten their models too. Oh and congrats on the birth of both your children, guys! May they grow up to be strong and healthy little builders like their parents! :D

That's a very difficult question and the answer will probably be very different for each of us. I sorted my entire collection of bricks a few years ago and it might not be the best way of doing it but it works for me. Same as you I didn't really have too much space so I sorted my bricks by how useful they were for me first, sorting all those I used very regularly into little drawers. For instance there are individual drawers for all sorts of tiles, one for plates with clips, one for plates with bars on them and so on, not sorted by colour though. Those all fit on my rather small desk. For all the larger parts I have a system set up where I sort them by colour and into a few categories depending on how much of a colour I have. One box for bricks, one for plates, one for slopes and one for all the rest. For all of these I use IKEA boxes, I think they are called Samla or something like that. They all fit into one set of full height shelves. Long story short, maybe you can avoid selling off your Lego again by sorting it in a way that fits your space and your needs. There are lots of parts that you will probably rarely ever need and that don't need to be sorted too precisely but you might be glad to have them at some stage. I find it very helpfull to building to have a good selection of parts at hand because while there certainly are parts and colours you will use more than others I would avoid limiting your palette too much. I really can't tell you which parts you will definitely need because the ones I use might not fit your building style. I know a bunch of people who build the same kinds of models as I do and our parts and techniques could not be more different. Enough rambling.. I think you will have to figure out what you need most for yourself. If you can, keep the parts you have right now and just start building stuff. That's the best way of finding out what you might be missing and what you really don't need. Hope this was at least a bit helpful.. :)

According to the "Owner's Guide to the Millenium Falcon" there is a service crawlspace inside the starboard mandible that can be accessed from the forward cargo hold and leads to the inside edge of the mandible. Maybe that's where the escape pod would have it's entrance. Not sure if there is any official answer to this though. Doesn't seem like something Lando would like.. Either way, I never really liked that part of the Solo Falcon. I feel like it disturbs the proportional balance of the ship too much.

Looks really nice. If you break it down it really is a simple build but it looks much grander and complex when opened up. I think you could have probably done without the clip on the floor maybe? I think it might look better to have the left side attach to the portal part like the right does, too. Any plans on maybe building the other rooms before this one too?

Oh please don't get me wrong! I do like the engine design, after all it is similar to my approach a few years ago and I think you got that transition as smooth as it can be with this technique. I just think that the rest of the model is so fantastic that this "merely very good" part sticks out a bit. I see what you mean about the doors. I never realized how far they extend to the front in the CW version. I always thought they had the same overall cargo bay length and just a second door to fill the gap but it appears that there is quite a difference. Forget I ever said anything about it! :D

Every now and then someone posts a MOC of something that you had considered (or even started already) to build and it's so good that you just want to give up your own attempt.. this is definitely one of those models! You just captured the shapes and profiles so perfectly. I really look forward to seeing the finished model in real bricks. I do have two little nitpicks though. I feel like the proportions of the doors in comparison to each other don't quite match the source material yet. The front doors seem to be a bit too long to me. And maybe you can find a way to make the engines look a bit smoother? The rest of the ship has such well built curves and angles that the engines look a bit crude in comparison. I know how hard it is to get round objects with a diameter of three studs. I think the part that's bothering me is mostly the tapered parts in the front. You've probably already put a lot of time and effort into the engines but if you can bear to work on them any more that might be something you could improve this already excellent model even more with.

Looking good so far! I really like your bridge mod. Would you send me the lxf file for it? I might just try redoing my own. 15£ for an A4 sheet sounds fair enough. Is it glossy sticker paper? Still haven't added the UCS plaque to the model myself..

Very smooth build. The ship is instantly recognizable from all angles and those renderings really add to it! Really great work!

I agree that figuring stuff like this out on the real model is much more practical than using LDD. For my current Falcon WIP I used LDD to figure out the proportions and how I wanted most elements to look and got estimations of how they would connect but I always built them IRL shortly after to figure out the exact connections. You always need to keep in mind that the Falcon can get quite off balance if you're not careful to balance out the weight. So super detailed and heavy mandibles might not hold up the way you hoped they would in LDD. I predesigned mine with all the connection points I possibly could in LDD and luckily it all holds together perfectly but you only really know once you've built it. Good luck with your build. The tiny glimpse of your LDD file looks like you're on a good path! :)

I've been following this build since you started posting about it here and always enjoy seeing the progress you make! Your first Venator was already a really nice build wow does this put it to shame! :D I really like when people decide to completly rebuild something they've built before. It just shows how much a builder has developed in skill and this Venator is the perfect example for this. Even though it isn't even finished it already looks like it will be the best Venator MOC out there! Keep us posted on this. I'd also really like to see some WIP pictures of the Real Brick build if you have any. :)

The difference between the first renders and the final photos is just incredible! I already really liked the digital model but it just looks sooo much better in real bricks! I especially love the greebling around the main ring and on the sides of the mandibles and that cockpit build is just fantastic! I also think the mandible design works really well with the rest of the design, the level of intricacy in the overall build fits very well with the smoothness of the SNOT work. The mandibles on my (currently unpublished) most recent version of the Falcon are built in a very similar fashion and I can only agree that connecting them to the hull without warping the entire front half or them simply sagging under their own weight was quite the challenge. Looks like it worked out very well for you here. I really just have one small nitpick: I think the back of the ship maybe could use some more greebling. The tiles radiating from the center of the ship give it a very uniform look that the Falcon doesn't really have. It's really hard to explain what I mean but maybe using the 3x12 wedge plates on the surface with some greebling added to them could help tie the slightly raised part in the back of the ship together as one area of plating..? Anyway, great work on this and to me this is one of the best Falcon MOCs out there and I prefer it to most UCS scale models out there, especially the two official sets! :)

I am always amazed by people's ability to build such complex compound curves. I already struggle to build the relatively simple shapes of the Millennium Falcon and my latest attempts at a Naboo Royal starship are absolutely horrible. I'm really looking forward to seeing this thing finished and thank you for showing us that little glimpse of the interior structure. To me that combination of angles, curves, hinges and plates is just absolutely insane. I really wish I was able to build like that! :D

Yes, they have. There were quite a few Clone Trooper helmet variants first seen in Battlepacks (Kashyyyk-Scout, 212-Airbourne, the ARC-trooper helmet and I think even the CW style scout helmet) and also the Bounty Hunter battlepack gave us a new mold for 4-LOM. Oh and one of the very first BPs ever was the Rebel Soldier BP with the first Rebel Navy trooper helmets. So the "amazing first" probably doesn't refer to new molds in general. It might refer to one specific new mold for some alien race that we've never got in Lego so far...