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LegoTT

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  1. I also experienced issues with softer link, but with the yellow on the D11 thought. With any given thread tension, it will snap or lose the threads if you try to climb hard things too much (like another lego RC for sumo fight for exemple). BUT : with the same thread stucture, mounted with old black links it doesn't snap even if you tension it enough so it can never lose threads. (The rest of the toy is different so it do not have the same weight, but it's in the same range)
  2. It's very nice, I like the 3 point axle solution, the adjustable gearing on top of the gearbox and the fact the driveline is very strong for the scale. So it's a great base for trialtruck, I guess the driveline will not fail until you lose wheels.
  3. I missed it to and I also volonteering. I like the whole project and I wish I knew it for [TC21] that needed smartphone remote at some moment, all I got working for playing a complex sequence with only one input was NXT Remote Control from the Play Store.
  4. From which set is this part coming from ? (Only 2 to sell on bricklink right now) https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=7244&name=Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 2L with Axle&category=[Technic, Connector]#T=C&C=5
  5. Paave was the one to teach it to me, from 2016/08/31 11:19:02 I love minimalistic yet technic setup like this, I am impatient !
  6. Yeah, delivery time of pieces are a big issue for contests since they sometime take a whole month and once you have the special parts you see it doesn't work so you need a new shipment and another month etc. Since I'm not the only one with slow delivering issue I would take any tips, and if the subject is really relevant it maybe need a dedicated topic (if not already existing)
  7. Being an autovalve it's a motorised switch AND a pump. If you want multiple motorised switch and only one pump a smaller way to go is worm gear and 24t gear. I don't know if in this example the switch was tweaked tough, indeed switch can be made more smooth : You can see in this example that there is one more version of switch, I think that the first one (without pinhole) is the stiffest. The previous example didn't use the oldest switch, you may have one because it's so stiff, but here is a contraption proving you can switch it with the worm gear / 24t gear combinaison even with the weakest lego motor :
  8. About stability and body weight reduction, have you considered to go on a slighty bigger scale and put one motor or small battery box https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4760c01#T=S&O={"iconly":0} IN each leg (weight touching the ground instead being in the body), going up trough the leg with cardans at high rotation speed low torque and massive worm gear reduction just before the walking mechanism ? According philohome : https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm Three (3) 2838 motors https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2838c01&name=Electric, Motor 9V 5 x 4 x 2 1/3 with Black Axle and Dark Gray Base&category=[Electric, Motor]#T=S&O={"iconly":0} (48 gram each) give as much power than a PF XL motor and we can put one batterybox in the 4st leg (about 64 gram filled with the battery) I don't know if you can have full power of three 2838 motor with only one 9v battery tough, but I think that this battery box doesn't have current limitation so it will rely on the exact brand of 9v battery, some of them are engineered to have a smaller internal resistance.
  9. WOW dude you are ALSO making a clock ?! I'm devasted now... Not serious, I hope it will be as good as possible
  10. My last order on pick-a-brick in France took a whole month, when I expect fast delivery I use Bricklink.com
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