How do you maintain your 9V electric motors (10153)?

[Haddock51]

I have a large stock of 9V motors (10153). Some of them are more than 20 years old.

In order to extend lifetime and improve performance, I guess these motors should be maintained once a while.

Part of this mantainance most likely is lubrication of the steel axles. What kind of lubricant do you use that is not aggressive against Lego plastic?

I am also thinking of the steel wheels that pick up power from the track. These probably should be polished/cleaned in order to improve contact with the metal plates of the 9V tracks. What is the most feasable polish?

Anything on the electrical part?

[coreyg]

I have heard of people adding a lubricant to the axles of the 9v motors although I have not. I have had a few squeeky motors (I'm not sure where they are now) that I would add lubricant to (if I find them again).

The issue that I've heard of on the wheels are the thin metal pick ups that are inside the motor wearing out and I know of a few people soldering some wires to it so it will contact the wheel better.

I would not worry about the metal wheels themselves. I have had to clean the track both because of running trains and buying used track. I use the smoother side of "Rail Pal - Tidy Track -- 2-Sided Pad Rescue" to clean the track but I just heard from a local O gauge train club that they started using masonite board attached to the bottom of a car. I'm planning on trying this soon. I hadn't heard of this before and I'd be curious to know if anyone in the Lego community has tried it.

[Dread Pirate Rob]

I can highly recommend masonite if you are running trains regularly. my first job was running O scale model trains at a tourist attraction (Best first job ever) and one masonite block under a wagon on each train cleaned all the mainline tracks. use a fine file or sand paper to resurface the masonite once it gets dirty otherwise it will stop working. the trick is to get the right amount of pressure on the masonite so that it contacts the rail but does not cause too much drag. Trial and error recommended.

[Haddock51]

I have heard of people adding a lubricant to the axles of the 9v motors although I have not. I have had a few squeeky motors (I'm not sure where they are now) that I would add lubricant to (if I find them again).

The issue that I've heard of on the wheels are the thin metal pick ups that are inside the motor wearing out and I know of a few people soldering some wires to it so it will contact the wheel better.

I would not worry about the metal wheels themselves. I have had to clean the track both because of running trains and buying used track. I use the smoother side of "Rail Pal™ - Tidy Track™ -- 2-Sided Pad Rescue" to clean the track but I just heard from a local O gauge train club that they started using masonite board attached to the bottom of a car. I'm planning on trying this soon. I hadn't heard of this before and I'd be curious to know if anyone in the Lego community has tried it.

Thanks coreyg.

Some years ago, I mentionned the issue of lubricants to a Lego colleague of mine and he warned me particularly about the risk of using aggressive lubricants that could damage Lego plastic. Unfortunately I can't remember if he ever gave me some advice.

I also remember somebody mentionning sewing-machine oil to lubricate steel axles attached to wagon bogies mounted on heavy wagons and coaches, like the Santa Fe Superchief. Maybe this could also work on 9V engines. Has anybody tried?

Right now I am working with setting up the 9V Extreme track, a gigantic project. Part of this project is to clean some 1600 tracks, including points. So once this project is finalized, all tracks will be almost as new, at least for some while...

Edited November 9, 2015 by Haddock51

[Haddock51]

I can highly recommend masonite if you are running trains regularly. my first job was running O scale model trains at a tourist attraction (Best first job ever) and one masonite block under a wagon on each train cleaned all the mainline tracks. use a fine file or sand paper to resurface the masonite once it gets dirty otherwise it will stop working. the trick is to get the right amount of pressure on the masonite so that it contacts the rail but does not cause too much drag. Trial and error recommended.

That's an interesting idea.

Some year ago, I participated in the Wacky and Weared Locomotive contest in this forum with my Track Maintenance and Cleaning Train which includes a vacuum-cleaner, a rail brush, a fan and a small wagon with a heavy load to pressure cotton wool pads against the track. This is of course more a kind of a gag but maybe I could replace the pads with a masonite block?

This obviously creates a lot of friction and the train today includes three locomotives with two 9V engines each to cope with the 8 percent grades in my new track.

When I presented this track cleaning wagon, somebody mentionned that the 9V engine wheels don't pick up power from the top of the track but rather from the metal edge on the inside. So any track cleaning device should be angled in order to achieve optimal track cleaning results. I guess this should be done also with a masonite board.

Edited November 9, 2015 by Haddock51

[dr_spock]

You should use an ABS plastic safe lubricant.

http://machinedesign.com/site-files/machinedesign.com/files/archive/machinedesign.com/common/files/images/material-compatibility-guidelines.jpg

[coreyg]

When I presented this track cleaning wagon, somebody mentionned that the 9V engine wheels don't pick up power from the top of the track but rather from the metal edge on the inside. So any track cleaning device should be angled in order to achieve optimal track cleaning results. I guess this should be done also with a masonite board.

You are correct about the 9v wheels pick up power on the edge, but I clean my track straight across the top most of the time and it makes a big difference. I've bought some used track that had visible corrosion on the top of the track and I've cleaned it with a straight pad just across the top and that fixed the power issue (the train wasn't moving before and it was moving after cleaning). I sometimes try to clean on the edge as well, but not always and I'm not convinced it's any better than just the top of the track.

-Corey